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That Edo feeling in Sawara (updated for 2024)

Hinamatsuri 雛祭り(“Girls' Day” or “Doll Festival”) is celebrated in early March to pray for the health and safety of daughters. Historically, in nagashibina ceremonies, “hina” dolls were floated down a river to carry away misfortunes. Over time, this tradition has evolved into displaying beautiful dolls in Japanese homes, schools and other public space.

Every year, Sawara 佐原 in Chiba Prefecture re-create the real-life version of these ornately decorated dolls riding in boats down the town’s Ono River! During the hinafune event 雛船, girls dressed in period costumes float down a river in a beautiful procession. With live traditional music and historic Edo buildings in the background, it felt like a scene straight from an ukiyo-e painting.

2024 hinafune spring festival 雛舟春祭り: Saturday, 2 March 2024, two processions scheduled at 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM. Event will be canceled in case of rain. More festival info and map here and here + follow @visit_chiba_japan and @little_edo_sawara for more!

Sawara is a historic town where the streets and shops remain much as they were in the Edo period 200 years ago. Locally known as "Little Edo", Sawara was an important and prosperous port city. It’s said that people in the Edo period used to say:

Sawara is an easy escape from Tokyo to transport you back in time to an old elegant Edo. This slice of nostalgic Japan has earned a place on the Japan Heritage List and the Michelin Green Guide. Unsurprisingly, visitor numbers are increasing so read on to learn how to make the most of your visit.

Tips and ideas for a day in Sawara:

  1. Pick up a walking guide and map (English available) from the Tourist Centre outside of the south exit of Sawara Station.

  2. Make your way to the area along the Ono River to see the historic buildings and bridges. Boating is also possible in the summer.

  3. Rent a bike or hop on a bus to visit the famous Katori-Jingu Shrine.

  4. Sawara hosts several festivals in summer and autumn too: here and here.

To get to Sawara: 

  • Sawara is only 45 minutes by train from Narita Airport (covered by the JR Pass) so perfect for a visit if you have a couple of hours during a laypover or just before an evening flight.

  • From Tokyo, take the train to Narita Airport and transfer to another train to Sawara Station (covered by the JR Pass).

  • An alternative is the Tokyo-Sawara highway bus. The Green Kantetsu Bus (heading towards Hokota) departs Tokyo Station, Yaesu Exit and takes 90 minutes to Sawara (no transfer needed). Timetable here (3 buses a day on weekends, each way) - note the first bus (on weekend) departs Tokyo at 9:50 AM and arrives at Sawara 11:10 PM so you will miss the first procession at 11:00 AM (the train option will have more times / flexibility).

  • For easy accommodation bookings in Japan - use Rakuten Travel’s English website + app. Use “NAOMI15” for 15% off all hotel bookings (code valid until 19/4/24 for stays until 19/8/24).

Thanks for reading!